Im talking
about Cuba. That secluded island neighboring my homeland (Mexico). We all know
that it is quite an exception in most ways, but specially because is a
communist country with closed borders, but what most of us (and this is
specially so in my case)so not know is what implications this brings, or how
different it can be from something that looks so similar.
As you
might have noticed by now, I went there with great expectations and left deeply
disappointed, not only because of cuba in itself, but also several other
factors that made me angry even before I even arrived there. These unfortunate
events are stories in themselves and Ill indulge with the main tale in a
moment, but I want to make clear that this text is meant to be objective, what
happened before cuba did not happen in cuba.
Anyways, I was there. Finally made it and my friend was waiting for me right where I could findd her without effort, but of course, one of the first things I heard from her was that her card didnt work in the ATMs. This came as annoying but not surprising. I had plenty of money with me in cash to change because I had read before about problems with money and the complicated system of having a "tourist-only" currency and extra taxes to credit cards.
Nothing to
bad, we managed to get money with the exchange booth and then, as cubans are
not allowed to fly out of the country (except in special occasions) and
tourists are not allowed on the public buses, there is no other way to get to
Havana than to take a taxi... and so we did. This old american car that makes
the Havana look so nice and retro in all the pictures, yeah, why not? well,
they are unsafe, uncomfortable and they stink to burned oil and diesel.
The good
news is that on our first night, I wanted to go to a good restaurant. And lucky
us, right in front of the capitol there was a very big line of people waiting
to get a table in a Criollan restaurant. So we took our place and waited until
we got offered a nice table at what seemed to be a very fancy venue all
decorated with prices, hand carved wood decoration and lit under candle light.
Exactly what I was hoping to find to celebrate.
It was
named "Los Nardos". The food was good, and Prices seemed fair. I
enjoyed it. So yes, not everything is as bad as I describe it to be. But the
funny part about this, is that it was the only time on the trip that I would
feel pleased with a restaurant. We were very lucky to start the trip with that,
and it kept being a disappointment not being able to find another venue as good
as that one was, and even worst, at such good prices.
For the
rest of the trip, we fed mostly on smaller snacks and italian food (not
something to expect in the caribe), and in my case, imported and cheap cookies.
But on the bright side, most of the Casas will offer breakfast for around 4 Cuc's
and they are not too bad, but a bit miserable.
So in conclusion, Ill finish my whining by saying that in general, the food in
Cuba, as to be expected, is horrible according to my standards.
Asking for
an explanation was no use, he would just raise his shoulders and smirk trying
not to giggle again. Apparently the receptionist really doesnt like to be
interrupted. So we had lost our bus, what now? Well, they told us to wait for
the next one that was 3 hours away and that we shouldnt worry, there was always
place to spare. Which means we could have taken the bus yesterday? -I asked
calmly, and to my lack of amazement, the answer was "of course".
It was a
bad ride, not only because of our mood, it was long and also uncomfortable but
when we had our touristic stop to shop, we managed to start talking again with
each other. And funny enough, with the peace of mind, I managed to get some
sleep before reaching Cienfuegos which lucky us, greeted us with pretty good
weather. I verified (twice) the times for our bus to Trinidad tomorrow and we
found our way to our new Casa.
From here
on, the whole story turns out better. It was a little town founded by the
catalans so it was pretty and reminded me a bit to my beloved Barcelona. The
streets are build in a parallel mesh and organized by numbers and it makes it
pretty easy to move around without getting lost. Left our stuff and went out as
soon as possible so we managed to tour the little town quickly and we made our
way to the bay just before a very beautiful sunset. Its amazing how something
like that can cheer you up.
Next day we
finished with what we hadnt manage to see, including a funny rehearsal for a
kids show at the theater and made our way to the bus station where we had no
more problems. The bus ride was much shorter and upon arrival in Trinidad,
there was a lady with a sign that had my name written on it (I noticed that
there is a first time for everything) and she escorted us through a maze of
random streets (nothing like the nice Cienfuegos) up to our new Casa, and on
the way I finally started to feel like I was in Cuba.
Trinidad is
pretty. Most books names it the jewel of the caribean, which I consider an exaggeration
in any way, but I did like it from the beginning so I dont want to make it sound
bad. Then again, this might be because of all my bad previous experiences, the
best out of the bad? Either way, I was happy to be there, happy there was a Casa
de la Musica (even though I had no intentions of dancing salsa) and very
confortable in our new room.
Few days
went by with satisfaction until I had to leave Trinidad and my good friend
behind and go back for a very short night to the Havana. I wanted to arrive as
late as possible, go to sleep and wake up soon after to go to the airport. But
I had to eat something once I arrived and of course that city wouldnt let me go
without a last proper goodbye laugh (sarcastic smirk that is).
As I walked
to the casa with my backpack on the Boulevard (the most busy street I knew) looking
for a pizza stand to grab something on the go. Three girls approached me and
started asking me if I wanted to have a good time, so I very politely answered
that I was not interested. They continued insisting regardless of my ever more
loud and direct NO!, thank you... until the point where one started pulling my
arm and I had to yell for them to leave me alone, now!
They left
laughing and I got my pizza*. But as soon as I got home, I noticed the side
pocket of my backpack had been opened and I was missing a half bottle of water
and my 6 moths old toothbrush. Those girls had obviously been bothering me
while trying to get stuff out and left noticing I had nothing of value on the
outside pockets. But non-the-less, on my last 6 hours, I was robbed.
*(Note, the
pizza man was the only fair cuban that I got to meet for he gave me a couple of
Cuban pesos to make up the price difference instead of rounding it up)
It took a
while, and the other lines were moving, but ours wasnt. The lady by the desk
was just looking around waiting for the officer and I was about to ask what was
going on when I realized offer the side panel from his little cubicle that his
eyes were closed, and he wasnt reading something, he was nodding his head
asleep. Yes, the migration officer was asleep so I started giggling in
disbelief and took a few steps forward to make sure. Yes.
So I
screamed to the lady, loudly enough so everyone could hear: "wake him up,
he is sleeping!" and she looked at me confused before looking down and
realizing I was right and not knowing what to do, she just looked back at me
and didnt do anything. So at that moment, the lady behind me in line stepped
forward to the counter and with all her might slammed her hand against the desk
so loud that all the airport turned to look at the guard who just jolted and
almost fell back of his seat. I found this slightly amusing even though in other circumstances I would have laughed-out-loud. It was very funny and his face unforgettable. But I was in no mood of laughing anymore, I just wanted to get out of that country and be home with my family and this seemed to be the general feeling because everyone went back to the gloomy mood of just a minute ago, and shortly after, it seemed like nothing had even happened.
As I got to
the counter I said "good morning!" very cheerfully, but he didnt seem
to find this funny, and I didnt care if he did. I just waited a moment and went
thru. Managed to find the terminal without problem, I bought me a last package
of cookies and to my delight, not only the flight was on time but I made it to
Mexico alive.
The
conclusion of it all is that I do not like Cuba, and im very disapointed, but
lets be realistic here: What other week of my life could have produced such a
long and entertaining text? I even skipped a couple of stories so I wouldnt
overwhelm everyone... I always said that good times make good memories, and bad
times make good stories. The fact that I didnt like it, doesnt mean that I regret
being there. It was an enlightening experience and left me with memories (either
good or bad) that I will never forget and thats better than other holidays Ive
had.